South Patagonia - Argentina 29.01.2014 - 4th Post

South Patagonia – Argentina

29.01.2014

El Calafate 

Finally left Chile, usual chaos at border control, one guy trying to process 30 people through customs while 3 other guys sit at their windows doing Suduko!

Once through the border we had three hours of brushwood and desert like landscapes, with just the odd herd of sheep here and there, and the odd farmer on horseback.  Once we were within 10Km of El Calafate, snow topped mountains and turquoise lakes started to appear.  Once in the town it was so apparent in the difference between here and the Chilean towns – so much more sophisticated with tidy gardens and swish bars and restaurants.

30.01.2014

We set off on a bus excursion to the Perito Moreno Glacier, after 30 minutes the bus was having clutch problems and it was decided not to risk the 2 hour journey.  We were left on a freezing hilltop (to enjoy the wildlife, ha,ha.) while the driver returned to El Calafate for a replacement.

ANOTHER BUST BUS!!

The glacier was clearly visible at least 3Km away – it’s more than 15Km wide at it’s widest point and extends 30Km to the rear, and is more than 50 metres in height above the water level.  The total area is bigger than Buenos Aires.

There are higher glaciers in the area, but this is the most spectacular.

You can view the face of the glacier from a range of well constructed balconies, every couple of minutes you can hear, and sometimes see, huge pieces of the face of the glacier come crashing down into the lake.  Awesome!

The highlight of our trip was a boat ride that went really quite close to the face, a breathtaking sight of mother nature at it’s most spectacular.

                                                    It really was a day to remember.

01.02.2014

Another day – another bus – just 3 hours from El Calafate

El Chalten

El Chalten has been named ‘The trekking capital of Argentina’ and justifiably – the treks are superb.  At first sight El Chalten appears to be a bit of a shanty town, but once you are inside, the majority of places are quite new and has some excellent hostels and many superb restaurants, we have had two of the best evening meals we have tasted anywhere – real fine dining at an economical price.  The Argentine steaks are wonderful.

With no petrol stations, inhabitants have to travel the 160km to El Calafate to fill up, once you have been there and back and a trip to the mother-in-laws, you need to fill up again! 

We were also told there was just a single ATM in the town, what they didn’t tell us is that it’s rarely got any money in it.  We were panicking the night before leaving as we had not enough cash to pay the hostel bill. Just before we were about to sell our bodies, a queue appeared at the ATM - 45 minutes later we were solvent again.

02.02.2014

Los Glaciares National Park

Trek to Mt Fitz Roy

We took a minibus to the outskirts of the National Park and then an 11km trek to the base of Fitz Roy Mountain, passing lagoons, glaciers and terrific vistas.

On arriving at the base of Fitz Roy and looking up to the viewpoint and it’s horrendously

steep climb, some person said “I’m definitely not climbing up that” 

An hour and a half later, with common sense out of the window, we stood at the peak with aching thighs and shaking knees marvelling at the sight that greeted us.  Magnificent granite peaks, a glacier pitching into a lake and snow covered summits.

Most certainly, the Argentine El Chalten competes with all that the Chilean Torres del Paine has to offer.

We were blessed with super weather on this trek which made the 9 ½ hours and 24Km seem almost like a stroll in the park !!!!

We have really enjoyed El Chalten and the 4 superb treks we have made. We leave for a return trip back to El Calafate tomorrow and then leaving Patagonia for Rio Gallegos on the east coast.  

From here we will make our way northwards towards Buenos Aires.