Thursday, January 30, 2014

South Patagonia - 20.01.2014 - 3rd Post

South Patagonia - Chile


20.01.2014

Left Pucan for a 5 hour bus drive to Puerto Montt, an overnight stop and then a flight to Punta Arenas.  We are now 4,800 Km south of the heat of Atacama, and it sure feels like it, it will drop to zero tonight.  Arrived at our booked hostel to find that they had no notice of us coming – we did have a confirmation.  However we were soon able to find another place – panic over.

Another bus tomorrow for a 3 hour drive to Puerto Natales, the gateway to the Torres del Paine National Park.  We are praying for good weather for our 4 day visit – but good weather is only a possibility this close to Antarctica.

22.01.2014


Arrived at our hostel in Puerto Natales, quaint little town where tourism has taken over from their mining past.  Have 2 nights here before the 3 hour bus to Torres del Paine.


Our hostel in Puerto Natales

24.01.2014

Torres del Paine

We were half way through our bus trip from Puerto Natales, sitting directly behind the driver’s cab when we spotted streams of smoke coming out of the dashboard.  The cab was becoming immersed in smoke as the driver pulled up and then fearing for his own safety - he abandoned ship – leaving the 20 or so passengers onboard – reminiscent of the Costa Concordia !!  


After a minute or so he did return to the bus to let us out, the smoke subsided once he turned the ignition off, we were luckily able to transfer to a passing bus and resume our journey – we are pleased the Chilean aircraft are more reliable than the Chilean buses !


We have finally arrived at the Torres del Paine National Park – WOW.


We had totally miscalculated the size of the park, believing the distance between our two locations was around 10 mile – in fact it was 75 kilometres.  A couple of the treks we had planned were impossible, as somebody had put a river between it and us!  However all turned out OK, Hotel Lago Grey, overlooking the Grey Glacier, was a lovely location for walks, and the panoramic view from our room was to die for.



Trips to the Grey Glacier via boat were cancelled due to the high winds, and boy were they high, we had to abandon a hilltop walk at the halfway stage as it became too dangerous, but the views were still worth the climb.




One trek took took us across a small suspension bridge and around an island in Lago Grey, you could just see the Grey Glacier from here, with icebergs from the glacier aplenty. 





Now to the Hotel Les Torres – in the shadow of the Torres (towers).  We had planned to attempt the full walk to the Mirador directly from our hotel (only feet and horses are allowed ) but were prepared cut it short as we knew it was pretty long and pretty tough.  Stiff gradients up and down greeted us every few kilometres, and just as you thought you were close to the summit, down and then up again.





At one point we thought we had finally conquered it, but realised we had another hour of climbing over boulders before the towers came into view. 


Unfortunately, cloud and snow prevented us from having a clear view of these granite wonders, but it was still a sight for sore limbs.



We were jubilantly satisfied with our achievement, but apprehensive, as we knew the return trip would be equally challenging.




We finally arrived back at our hotel, totally shattered, 10 hours and 22 kilometeres after we set out, and did that gin and tonic taste good!





                                                     Our final view of The Torres del Paine


After 4 super nights in the national park it was time to leave and make our way back to Puerto Nateles for a night before leaving Chile and crossing to Argentina.











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